HANKS TRAVEL BLOG

The rain looks like it’s here to stay. Last night, I found a heater hidden in a cupboard and used it to dry my clothes. I hurried along the narrow cobblestone road to the nearest bar to get out of the rain. I found one pilgrim there, Bren, a pom. By the  time we were half way through our first beer, the bar was half full of pilgrims who I see daily on and off. Alistair left for his fancy hotel while Jeff, Duncan, and I had our dinner at this bar/restaurant. Helen and Mark popped in as did many others. I had paela as an entree, meatballs for main,and apple cake for dessert. The usual quota of wine and beer, and back to our closet for sleep. It rained over night, and when we left the albergue this morning, I only wore my singlet in very gloomy conditions. Cold breeze, fog and misty rain. After ten minutes the misty rain turned  heavy, so I stopped and employed my trusty poncho. The dirt road had many puddles, and a little mud but was quite manageable. Following the N12 was a drag with huge trucks speeding by only metres away. Haven’t seen any more vineyards, but will see them again further down the track. Jeff and I caught up with Helen and Mark, and I walked with them, sometimes joined by others for the rest of the day. Jeff took off like a 747, and we didn’t see him again until we were six kilometres from our destination. The only reason why we caught him, he and Bren were in a bar on their second pint. I dragged him out, and we all marched towards Belorado. Two kilometres before we reached our town, the rain started again. When we arrived, Helen and Mark peeled off to their accommodation. Jeff and I weren’t having much luck with finding accommodation, as the first three were full. I’ve never had that problem before. We ran into Linda and Adrian from Yeppoon, who were also having the same problem. Linda found an apartment, two bedrooms,  two bathrooms, so we joined forces and secured that for the night. A very nice apartment, the bathroom was bigger than the room Jeff and I shared last night. This evening we shall farewell Alistair, as he will be heading home to Wales

Last night was great. We made it to a bar before a storm hit and enjoyed a couple of pints before Helen and Mark joined us. It was so wonderful to have caught back up with them. After more consumption of alchohol and friendly chatter, we left Helen and Mark to find some dinner. Monday night, and the town was rocking. Restaurants and bars were packed,we were lucky to get into one and get a table. The tapas was sensational. All different types of fish, olives and other niceties. A salad was next, and a huge steak and chips, and some sort of yoghurt for the finale. Best meal I’ve had so far, washed down with red wine of course. Had to dodge the rain on the way back to the hostal, and the rain persisted most of the night. A good sleep and felt pretty good apart from a niggle in my back. I forgot to mention yesterday I met a man from Newmarket, and have also been chatting with a couple from Yeppoon in North Queensland. And squirrels, saw squirrels. Reminded me of Hyde park in London. Also reminds me when the kids were young, I woke up one night thrashing in my bed, having dreamt a squirrel was running up my leg. Gayle woke up and was more frightened from my thrashing around  than I from the squirrel about to dine on my crown jewels. So we told the kids who thought that was hilarious. The next day when I arrived home from work, there was a computer print out of this mean looking squirrel with his tongue hanging out, and the slogan underneath, “your nuts are next”. Emily and Ashleigh were not sure how I would react,but we all had a good laugh. So this morning,a cool dull sky, perfect walking weather. There was lots of mud about on the side of the road, but we were fortunate that the black stuff was where we were walking. I walked with a few other pilgrims at the start, and after five kilometres, it started raining. On with the poncho and all was good. Surmising it might rain more, and the tracks would be muddy, I got changed into my  wet weather shoes at the next cafe. The weather cleared up and the natural paths weren’t a problem. At one stage we had to manoeuvre around two hundred odd kids, as apparently walking a stage on the camino is part of the school curriculum. They were a good bunch and very polite, wishing us on with beun camino. There were some climbs,but they were long and not too steep. When we reached the highest point of the day at Ciruena,there is a golf resort. I remember walking past this lovely location ten years ago. All the many lovely dwellings were empty then,and are still now. At least it looks like the golf course is being utilised now, but strange the buildings have never been occupied. The way did follow the N12 motor way for a bit, and also led through an industrial estate for the last two kilometres as we headed into Santo Domingo. Alistair went to find his accommodation. Jeff and I checked into an albergue. I noticed Jeff  leaning to the right in the last kilometre, and he said his back was playing up. Alistair texted Jeff to say he had a bath in his posh room, so Jeff decided to go over and hope to get some relief sitting in hot water. In comparison, our room is four metres long, and less than two metres wide. Just enough room for two beds along one wall, and access to the second bed.

Although a large city, I enjoyed my time in Logrono. Last night, the pedestrian street had a huge amount of locals and their children out and about for dinner and drinks. Heaps of out door dining and drinking venues. No one was inside on this very balmy night. The usual couple of beers, and then pizza and wine for dinner. Before then,someone yelled my name as I was walking with out my brace, I turned to see who it was and twisted my knee and got a terrible stab.I sat straight down in a bar and drank some medicine.I then thought I might have to have my pack sent on to the next town,and walk with out it.I limped back to the hotel and enjoyed my sleep. This morning my knee seemed ok,but I still didn’t want to carry it, so Alistair tried to organise transport for mine and Jeff’s bag. We didn’t hear back, so I decided I had no choice. Half hour after we left, the company replied to Alistair’s request, but I wasn’t walking back that far. The morning was much cooler and not a blue sky in sight. Dark clouds,stuck with us all the way. It warmed up a bit, but the ground didn’t bake like it had the last few days. Mostly flat and natural paths were a great relief. Leaving Logrono wasn’t much fun having to navigate the city traffic and concrete paths. Also a bridge was closed and then getting lost didn’t improve things at that time of the morning. But once out of town it was nice to walk amongst the grape vines again. A couple of sections walking with the motor way nearby wasn’t doing it for me either. At around 11.30 the skies opened up, and the rain falling down was comforting. We found an old shed so I could remove my poncho from my pack. The rain didn’t last long, but there were a couple of minor showers later in the day. When we arrived at Najera, Alistair peeled off to find his hostal,while Jeff and I looked for accommodation on the phone sitting on a park bench. Jeff received a call from Alistair  to tell him there were vacant rooms where he was staying. By now my body is aching all over and found it difficult to start walking back towards the hostal.I had trudged about 300 metres when I realised I had left my phone on the park bench. Adrenalin took over, and I managed to run back and thankfully my phone was still there. I was happy to check in and after a wonderfully hot shower was able to recuperate lying on my bed. I forgot to mention, after I put my poncho on, I was so excited to be walking through the rain, I walked about one hundred metres and realised I left my poles behind. So I was a bit clumsy today,.maybe a bit knackered also. I was proud of my efforts today, considering I didn’t think I could make it this morning, but I achieved thirty kilometres today. I’ll be walking around twenty now for a few days as the towns line up to do that.

It means great wine producing area. Last night we joined Alistair at his modern albergue for drinks and dinner.Our’s was ancient. We dined with lots of familiar faces. One newbie I spoke with, Tom, a dutchie, had fun rambling on with this old bloke in dutch. At seventy one, he is one tough son of a bitch. He started his camino in France, before Bordeaux. In twenty days, he has walked six hundred kilometres,carrying his pack. That’s averaging thirty kilometres a day, unless he’s a bullshit artist like myself. Like every other night, I zonk out as soon as my head hits the pillow. This morning, this now familiar international threesome of Alistair Jeff and I left the small village of Sansol under another incredible blue sky. After a flat bit of around five hundred metres, our first sharp downhill was upon us. It was then, that Jeff realised he had left his hiking poles at the mini mart that happened to be open on a Sunday morning. Alistair and I waited while Jeff trudged back to retrieve them. We then walked another km and blow and behold, a cafe open for business. A guacamole and Turkey toasted sandwich with hot chocolate really hit the spot. As we took off, Alistair put his hand in his pocket and found his room key, so it was now his turn to go back.I was a bit concerned, as usually things happen in three. Jeff and I continued through mainly gores and bushland and also vineyards as far as you could see. A very winding track, which crossed a very winding road several times throughout the day. I could have done with a hedge trimmer. As there has been no rain, the natural paths, which are all clay based, are baked solid and are harder to navigate than concrete paths as they’re very uneven and rocks sticking up and worse when climbing up or going down steep hills. The time spent on the bitumen today was probably the best option. When it’s like this the feet really suffer. After twenty one kilometres, I was happy to call it a day. We had stopped a few times and one longer stop, I removed my socks and shoes, which does really help the feet to rejuvenate. As you catch up to other pilgrims, you can tell what nationally they are from looking at the back of their legs. Because you have had some conversation with them, and they also have stops, you pass each other many times. So to forget about how hot you or your feet are, I think, as I am about to pass this pilgrim,ha ha,those legs are Korean,and then the next ones are Mexican, and the next one are english. I was scoring myself at ninty percent. Also I have noticed as we walk our ninth day,the amount of injured pilgrims. Many, including me wearing knee braces, and a number limping, probably from blisters. This time next week, I believe the buzzards will be circling. Heard cuckoo birds today, or someone’s clock is stuffed, as they were calling well beyond twelve ,even at twelve.

Today for me, is the most important day of the year. To be walking the camino on this most important day is an extra bonus to reflect on the people who gave their lives for me to live the incredible life I live.I can’t thank you enough. I salute you.I brought a knitted poppy from home and proudly wore it.Lest we forget. Yesterday, we walked from the square to the way so we wouldn’t get lost this morning. I’m not sure if we got lost heading out of Estella or confused,but some how,we were walking the wrong way along the river and ended up at a dead end. Luckily, we were only half a K out of the way. I’m now a poet. It’s always a grind leaving a city due to the concrete pavement. At least there weren’t lots of people and cars. Estella is a nice place for a rest. By the time we were five kilometres out of town the hard pavement changed to gravel and greenery. By 8.15 we arrived at a free vino font and there must have been twenty pilgrims lined up with their cups like seagulls waiting for crumbs. I joined them, but realised after five minutes that it wasn’t flowing today,so moved on. It was a great day for walking, sunny and cool breeze. A couple of steep hills, but nothing too serious. The plan today was to walk twenty one kilometres and see how we’re travelling. If we were up to it, we could walk an extra seven, and then make tomorrow easier as sometimes the villages are further apart. Any way, even though I got my first blister, I doctored it at the twenty one kilometre mark, had an icecream and decided to walk the extra. Alistair left after Jeff and I this morning and caught up with us at around the fifteen kilometre mark where we were having a break on a park bench in the middle of nowhere. I bought a baguette this morning and also some cheese and salami. I also had my flask of tea, so I was quite content 😌. Having arrived at the albergue, it was and always is a relief to get the pack off my back and get my socks and shoes off. Then a hot shower, wash my singlet, jocks and socks. If there is time,a rest before heading out and catching up with other pilgrims for the odd drink and dinner. Allister is joining us again this evening. Helen and Mark are ahead by a day, but hopefully we’ll catch them up in a week or so. One of the villages we walked through today was gearing up for a medieval paella festival

Jason and Amy left around 8am to  catch the bus to Biarritz for their flight back to the UK. Jeff and I relaxed and I had a cup of tea. About an hour later, I think we made it official that today would be a day of rest. I felt relieved and relaxed knowing we didn’t have to go. We wandered to the square on a very nice laid back day and shared a toasted sandwich, consisting of tuna, egg and lettuce. A piece of curitzo tortilla and bread followed. This wonderful cafe also served my favourite Spanish thick hot chocolate drink. I spoke with the family as Ashleigh and her two littlies arrived from Tasmania for a week of warmer weather. Willa was not impressed with her first flight. Alistair joined us for morning tea, and we strolled around Estella. Later after lunch, which also included one of those Spanish hot chocolate drinks,we relaxed in the sunshine,later enjoying a one hour body massage. Alistair and Jeff only required half hour.  Back to the accommodation for siesta, and it really has been a well deserved day off. I heard through the grape vine that young Jed did a double day yesterday, so I can only hope we see him down the track sometime. Oh to be young again. Probably sound like an old man. Slowly getting there. We met up again with our welsh friend for drinks and dinner. An early night as the camino awaits us tomorrow on a very special day.

This morning we left the very modern albergue, more like a resort actually, about 8,quite cool weather and heavily clouded skies. After maybe 500 metres we saw Alistair, Helen and Mark outside a cafe enjoing a chat and coffee. We ordered ours and joined them,when Helen brutally, in her proper English accent, announced in front of all that was within earshot, that someone whose mouth produced so much bullshit could write so well. Everybody including me pissed themselves laughing. I took it as a compliment at the highest level. They then left, and soon after we along with Alistair also left. At that point Alistair told me he was finally only believing 50 percent of what I was telling him. The day’s walking started really well. Not much road and plenty of gravel tracks and gravel roads. A bit of up and down, but that’s ok, and the weather kept relatively cool under the cover of clouds till about midday. Then everything changed. Jason was travelling ok, considering the amount of blisters he now carries. Amy was also jumping up and down like a rabbit, and they both had decided to carry their packs as today was reluctantly the last day as next week they need to be back at work. Jeff too was going ok and smartly enough allowed his pack to be transported. But, as can easily happen when you have a bad back, a wrong step and bang,all of a sudden he was leaning to one side, and at six foot four, slightly taller than me,you can’t hide it. We then stopped for lunch at the next village. Jeff rested a bit and did some exercise, probably to no avail. A short while later, I could feel dicky knee had rejoined me, so I stopped and after two days walking freely, put my brace back on. As the afternoon progressed Jeff was really starting to struggle. He tried not to show it,but by now he was leaning on a forty-five degree angle. We stopped numerous times in the last six kilometres and finally made it to a bar in our stop for the night at Estella. A couple of lagers and catching up with our priest, we now had about 1.5 ks to walk. Whilst I was in the bar ordering drinks, I spoke to a lovely English girl living in New Zealand, who stated, you’re famous, you’re that seventy four year old  Australian,who never wears any clothes and loud and swears alot. She did say it very sweet, so I accepted my second compliment of the day. We then passed this most incredible chocolate/patisserie shop. Amy was actually drooling that bad, the saliva was dripping on to the ground like a british bull dog. Alistair went in and bought us all a treat. My dark chocolate full of almonds was the best I have ever tasted.We grindingly arrived at our very nice accommodation at six o’clock. No time for rest unfortunately. A shower and met up with Alistair, Helen and Mark at an American diner, for our farewell dinner with Jason and Amy. Jason is a wizz with IT,and I will miss him immensely. With his help, I can now confidently turn my phone on and off. Shit I’m going to miss him. And also Amy. This morning I will let Jeff make the call if he and I call today a rest day. Personally I wouldn’t mind resting my knee, it does sound like a good idea. Alistair is having an RDO, so we’ll see what happens.

This was an awsome experience. A very old building tastefully modernised. Thankfully Jason, our IT man was in charge of proceedings, otherwise we might have slept out on the pavement. It was all  too technical for me. Once in, we chambered up the old staircase to the fourth floor and inside found this gem. Three bedrooms with double beds. Jason and Amy shared  the ensuite room, Jeff and I had the other two rooms. After a hot shower, the very large TV was showing sixty year old spaghetti westerns. Talking about spaghetti, Jason and Amy went food shopping and Jason made the most incredible spaghetti bol. Allister, staying near by joined us for dinner. Washed down with beer and wine, I didn’t need any rocking to get to sleep. Before I left the next morning, I was able to phone Gayle to say hi and by the time the others dropped their luggage off, we were walking by 8.30. The first four ks, not much fun walking away from a big city. Too much pavement, cars and people. Once on the edge of town, I welcmed the gravel paths even though we had a big climb for about ten ks to reach the big white windmills at the top of the mountain. Here we had an enjoyable break. Helen and Mark found us here, and finally we walked the rest of the day with them. The day started at 14 degrees, but warmed up quickly. By the time we reached our destination, with a three kilometre detour to a hexagonal church in the middle of nowhere, it was 30 plus. Although a dry heat,and feeling good, I was happy to remove my back pack and enjoyed my hot then icy cold shower immensely. A very modern albergue, jeff and I shared a room with two single beds, Jason and Amy our neighbours. We had a couple at the bar before joining others for dinner. Allister joined us, as did Helen and Mark. At the bar, we also met up with Sammy from Yorkshire, and Jed. At 21 years of age, he is the baby. A very fine young man. I’d be proud to call him mine. I spoke to his girlfriend on the phone and told her hang onto this bloke, he’s unique. Not long after dinner, I thought I would rest a bit and do my blog. I lasted long enough to write the title. Talking about titles, I must explain the wham Bam Exuse me ma’am title. I don’t proof read my blogs sometimes and left out the sentence that said, when walking out of the albergue that morning, the Pyrenees look stunning under a cloudy frosty morning, however when you see the climb ahead, wham Bam Exuse me ma’am, let’s do it.

We have now left the Pyrenees and travelling through  Basque.  country in Spain. Many pilgrims about but definitely not over crowded. Last night we had dinner at the albergue, which was good as I had no energy to walk anywhere. In fact yesterday afternoon I was that knackered, I saw a young lady walking her horse. Through broken english, I offered to buy the horse, but she wasn’t interested. The pilgrim’s meal last night was very thick vegetable soup roast chicken and roast potato slices. Dessert was a chocolate moose and washed down with the local vino. I didn’t need any rocking to get to sleep. Breakfast this morning was a picnic put together by the albergue. Five euro, and it consisted of a banana, a fruit juice, a fruit bar,a crosaint and a ham and cheese sandwich. I bought a nice egg and curitzo baguette for lunch. The walk today was very peaceful and not to strenuous until we got about five kms from Pampolona. Before then mainly through forest. The last five ks was walking through traffic om concrete pavement and 30 plus degrees. Also Jason had to walk extremely slow as he has developed a number of blisters. Jeff managed ok with his back, but was grateful not to have his back pack. We saw Helen and Mark for a fleeting moment, and Allister was with us for part of today’s section. I also met many other pilgrims. Tonight we are in an apartment organised by Jeff prior to the trip, so that will be a nice change from the albergues. Touch wood,so far the albergues haven’t been crowded and all nice and  clean. It is rather early in the season.

In the meet and greet, I love to watch people as they explain their reasons for walking. Some can hardly speak English, but you can see the passion in their faces. Some are grieving from the death of loved ones,even pets, or looking where their lives are at,religion, spiritual is a common one, comradiry and,looking beyond retirement, and lots other reasons. It’s very addictive, as many pilgrims have done more than one, including myself. Me?spiritual comes in for me, comradely, also time to reflect on my parents who have passed many years ago. Also I reflect  about our grandson Teddy, how he was taken away from us at only three weeks old and I walk for Ashleigh and pray that she can keep the strength to guide Willa, Teddy’s twin to build her body to be able to live as a normal child. At two and a half she is slowly punching above her weight. Now, back to the way. Last night’s pilgrim’s meal was a delicious salad entree, fish and chips, some sort of cream and chocolate cake, beer and wine. Can’t complain. As my stomach muscles and knees, add in thighs,calves were now aching from two days of mainly climbing, I was happy to have an early night. This morning I didn’t exactly bounce out of bed, but left the albergue to get some miles in before breakfast. Started off quite cold, great for walking, but got considerably warmer as the day wore on. After about four kms we stopped, had brekky, and caught up with the welsh man. Those first few kms were pleasant gravel paths,the smell of cow shit going through my nostrils,I was sore but feeling good. Long day today,about twenty five kms.Some road work, a number of ups and downs over rocky ground, quite steep, but not as bad as yesterday. My body not recovered completely so at times had to stop as legs feeling like jelly. Jeff went missing and later on in the afternoon, we found out he had hurt his back,so he slowed down, but finally made it to the albergue about 5pm. Tomorrow he will use the luggage transport and walk without his pack